It had been my long-standing dream to make it down to South America, but when I first set foot on the continent last Friday, it was late, it was dark, and I was exhausted after a delayed, 13-hour flight with Iberia (which, by the way, is not the most modern of airlines - they still have collective TV screens...). So, after a long wait to get through customs and an expensive taxi ride, I was a bit underwhelmed and headed straight to ...